Fashion Cultural appropriation
george iv of united kingdom wearing highland dress, 1822.
cultural appropriation controversial in fashion industry due belief trends commercialise , cheapen ancient heritage of indigenous cultures. there debate whether designers , fashion houses understand history behind clothing taking different cultures, besides ethical issues of using these cultures shared intellectual property without consent, acknowledgement, or compensation. in response criticism, many fashion experts claim occurrence in fact culture appreciation , rather cultural appropriation. companies , designers claim use of unique cultural symbols effort recognize , pay homage specific culture.
17th century victorian era
during 17th century, forerunner 3 piece suit appropriated traditional dress of diverse eastern european , islamic countries. justacorps frock coat copied long zupans worn in poland , ukraine, necktie or cravat derived scarf worn croatian mercenaries fighting louis xiii, , brightly colored silk waistcoats popularised charles ii of england inspired exotic turkish, indian , persian attire acquired wealthy english travellers.
less generation after highland clearances, british aristocracy appropriated traditional scottish clothing. tartan given spurious association specific highland clans after publications such james logan s romanticised work scottish gael (1831) led scottish tartan industry invent clan tartans , tartan became desirable material dresses, waistcoats , cravats. in america, plaid flannel had become workwear time of westward expansion, , worn old west pioneers , cowboys not of scottish descent. in 21st century, tartan remains ubiquitous in mainstream fashion.
by 19th century fascination had shifted asian culture. english regency era dandies adapted indian churidars slim fitting pantaloons, , wore turbans within own houses. later, victorian gentlemen wore smoking caps based on islamic fez, , fashionable turn of century ladies wore orientalist japanese inspired kimono dresses. during tiki culture fad of 1950s, white women donned qipao give impression had visited hong kong, although dresses made seamstresses in america using rayon rather genuine silk. @ same time, teenage british teddy girls wore chinese coolie hats due exotic connotations.
in mexico, sombrero associated mestizo peasant class appropriated earlier hat introduced spanish colonials during 18th century. this, in turn, adapted cowboy hat worn white americans after civil war. in 2016, university of east anglia prohibited wearing of sombreros parties on campus, in belief these offend mexican students.
modern era
blue denim jeans, traditional american clothing, have been appropriated consumers throughout europe , asia.
during 1920s , 30s, british bowler hat appropriated quechua , aymara indian women in bolivia, , various african tribal elders in british empire associated hat authority. in britain, rough tweed cloth clothing of irish, english , scottish peasantry, including flat cap , irish hat appropriated upper classes british country clothing worn sports such hunting or fishing, in imitation of prince of wales. country clothing, in turn, appropriated wealthy american soc , later preppy subcultures during 1950s , 1980s due both practicality , association english elite.
in britain, germany , japan during 1950s, young boys began wearing traditional american clothing such blue jeans , checked western shirts due association cowboys of silver screen. traditional cowboy shirts pearl snaps later revived in britain , america during 1970s, 1980s , 2010s unisex adult fashion. british teddy boys appropriated bolo tie had served folk costume in southwestern united states, , wore them locally tailored imitations of zoot suit. during 2011 visit canada, prince william , kate middleton appropriated cowboy hats , western shirts, , posed photographs charles, prince of wales criticised tasteless.
when keffiyehs became popular in late 2000s, experts made clear distinction between wearing of genuine scarf, , fake made in china. palestinian independence activists , socialists denounced wearing of scarves not made in palestine form of cultural appropriation, encouraged white indie kids , muslim youths buy shemaghs made in herbawi factory demonstrate solidarity palestinian people , improve economy of west bank. in 2017, topshop caused controversy selling chinese-made playsuits imitated pattern of keffiyeh.
in 2012 during annual victoria s secret fashion show, model karlie kloss scrutinized wearing native american headdress during walk on runway. there mixed public response. people of mixed heritage sensitive headdress. usa today ran feature interviewed woman of mixed heritage said headdress symbol of leadership , honour, , has religious meaning behind it. cultural meaning not considered in victoria’s secret’s use of headdress accessory. victoria s secret issued apology stating had no intentions of offending anyone.
at 2014 coachella festival 1 of noted fashion trends bindi. bindi traditional hindu head mark , part of religious culture of hinduism. pictures of festival surfaced online there public controversy on casual wearing of bindi. people offended because felt people wearing bindi not understand meaning behind it.
archbishop justin welby of anglican church has claimed crucifix fashion statement , has lost religious meaning. . crucifixes have been incorporated japanese lolita fashion non-christians in cultural context distinct original meaning christian religious symbol.
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