Example: Deep water waves Stokes drift
stokes drift under periodic waves in deep water, period t = 5 s , mean water depth of 25 m. left: instantaneous horizontal flow velocities. right: average flow velocities. black solid line: average eulerian velocity; red dashed line: average lagrangian velocity, derived generalized lagrangian mean (glm). the stokes drift formulated water waves george gabriel stokes in 1847. simplicity, case of infinite-deep water considered, linear wave propagation of sinusoidal wave on free surface of fluid layer: η = a cos ( k x − ω t ) , {\displaystyle \eta \,=\,a\,\cos \,\left(kx-\omega t\right),} where η elevation of free surface in z-direction (meters), a wave amplitude (meters), k wave number: k = 2π / λ (radians per meter), ω angular frequency: ω = 2π / t (radians per seco...